Interview Crossline Magazine
Read here my latest interview, thank you @crosslinemagazine
1. FIRST INTRODUCE YOURSELF?
I’m Susana Martins, a Jewelry Designer. Jewelry has always been in my blood.I was born and raised in northern Portugal in an area with a rich goldsmithing history. I trained as a Goldsmith and stone-setter before pursuing a post graduate diploma in design alongside gemology and diamond qualification.
2. TELL US ABOUT YOUR AESTHETIC.
My Aesthetic is bold and edgy. I love symmetry and geometric shapes and strong colors applied in unexpected combination. I can say my Aesthetic is heavily influenced by the art deco period.
3. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEDIUM AND WHY
love to draw by hand. I find it quite relaxing and it’s perfect to experiment since I don’t have to think in instructions and measurements to type in a key board at this Stage. But Rhinoceros is my ‘GO TO’ cad program to create the 3D prototypes of my pieces and, as a symmetry obsessed as I am, I get there the accuracy that I can’t achieve through in my hand sketch. It’s the perfect combination.
4. DESCRIBE YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS. WHAT ARE THE MAJOR STEPS?
I have deep respect and appreciation for craftsmanship underlying the creation of fine jewelry. So quite often my creative process start by exploring the techniques and machinery I have available. I love the ‘Hand crafted / Hand tech’ combination. I always ask ‘what can I do with you’ looking at the latest version of a 3D printer with the same enthusiasm as I Discuss with the jeweler about a hand engraving or setting technique.
5. WHO AND/OR WHAT INSPIRES YOUR WORK?
There is a permanent mood board in my design studio, but I usually draw my first sketch for a jewel from a gemstone or materials available such as enamel, wood or ceramic. The inspiration for the designs come from a variety of historical periods, For an example I am particularly passionate about the art deco period with its range of exotic influences, and the glamour of the 1940s and 50S when ladies wore jewelry for the most occasion.
6. HOW DO YOU INCORPORATE FEEDBACK INTO YOUR DESIGNS? WHAT’S A TIME YOU RECEIVED HARD CRITICISM FOR YOUR WORK?
I’m always very selective with my ‘opinion leaders’, everyone will have feedback to give but there are only a handful of people who have the right background and experience to provide valuable advice. Jewelry is most of the time related to emotions, therefore I always make sure to dedicate time to and listen to my clients, because it is important to understand what they actually want so that I can deliver.
7. WHERE DID YOU STUDY?
I’ve studied for 3 years in ‘CINDOR’ a jewelry school in the north of Portugal where I learned Goldsmith and setting techniques. There after I took a post graduate diploma in jewelry design in the school of arts of the Oporto catholic university, alongside with a qualification in gemology and diamond grading with the GIA_Gemology institute of America.
8. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS?
At the moment I live in Dubai, just left a project I’ve founded and was the creative director to start my own solo adventure, my online boutique, and my creative studio, so in the next five years I still see myself based here, my project demands it so, and honestly, all happen here, it’s such a perfect place for a jeweler and an entrepreneur.
9. WHAT ABOUT IN TEN?
Too soon to Tell.
10. HOW DO YOU MEASURE THE SUCCESS OF YOU DESIGN?
It’s common to measure success by finances, how much money you make out of a design or how many people want to hire you. I do what I love for a living and I get to choose what design I do and with who I work with. This makes me Happy.
11. NOW, TELL US A LITTLE MORE ABOUT YOU AS A PERSON: WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE FOOD?
Portuguese and Italian, it’s MAMA’S food always comforts me.
12. FAVOURITE BOOK?
Blindness By JOSE SARAMAGO
13. FAVOURITE GENRE OF MUSIC?
Music gives a real boost to my creative process, I’m always in good mood, almost ah.. in my playlist, I literally listen to all, I have USHER, DEF LEPPARD, KISS, LANA DEL REY, THE SWAN LAKE music album, JAY Z.
14. WHAT ARE YOUR HOBBIES?
Planning entertainment to my daughter, she is such an energetic child, and cooking, love to experiment with food.
15. IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?
A chef, I love food and love cooking, specially dinner for my people, ‘Show me another pleasure like dinner which comes every day and lasts an hour’.
Images by Mahmood Omari