The journey that Susana Martins has undertaken is geographical, artistic and metaphorical. Born in Portugal and now settled in Dubai, when creating her jewelry, she starts from a knowledge of “artisan art” and the goldsmith’s tradition to arrive at an intuitive and extremely contemporary design in which notions of architecture and innovative techniques converge. The common thread linking her collections is mainly incorporating the human form in each creation.
Fueled by her passion for the art form, Susana initially trained as a stone-setter before undertaking a goldsmith apprenticeship for three years, allowing her to learn the local artisans’ most ancient and complex techniques.
In 2005, Susana earned her post-graduate diploma in Jewellery Design from the School of Arts at Oporto Catholic University to enhance her knowledge further in design, gemology, and diamond grading. After gathering experience through key roles in jewelry production and creative consultancy alongside her Bespoke Atelier, Susana compiled this deep foundation of knowledge and experience to launch her eponymous label, Susana Martins (SMJ).
Unstoppables – 2×2 in Vanilla
Now based in Dubai, Susana continues to oversee every aspect of the jewelry-making process, from sourcing and cutting gemstones to producing the finished piece. Her depth of understanding of her craft liberates her creativity, allowing her to conceive an idea and bring it to fruition seamlessly. This ease, born of intense study and dedication, enables the designer to convey a range of experiences through her work. “My pieces are not about self-expression as much as they are about how they communicate with our sense, memory, emotions, and body,” she explains.
Susana’s aesthetic is heavily influenced by various historical periods, particularly the Art Deco era, due to its widespread influence across the arts and the techniques pioneered in jewelry making at the time. Driven by the intersection of architecture and design, her pieces reflect this passion through texture, balance, and the confluence of geometric and fluid lines.
Josephine Ring – Bespoke 2012
The human form plays a significant role in Susana’s creative process. Many pieces in her prolific work incorporate the body into the design. Her Unstoppables collection, inspired while sitting with a dear friend and witnessing her expressing herself with her hands, was created with no “front” or “behind” in mind. “Our hands’ motions inspire the 360° perception present in each piece and the energy we project into the activity around us,” she says.
From ear climbers to ear cuffs to rings designed around negative space, her designs boast unique dimensions that defy perceptions of both space and geometry.
WORK - COMMISSIONS - COLLABORATIONS
- Clerkenwell Design Week – LONDON – artist exhibition in collaboration with Munna Design
- Maison & Objet – PARIS – launch of the “Heritage Revisited” with Munna Design
- Decorex International – LONDON – collective exhibition
- Millionaire Fair – AMSTERDAM – guest designer
- Oporto Show – PORTO – product design exhibition
- Divulgarte Art Gallery – PORTO – curator of contemporary jewellery exhibitions
- Oikos – PORTO – “Artists for Solidarity” exhibition – Collective
- Museo Automobilistico de Malaga – SPAIN – permanent exhibition of a “jeweled” sculpture commissioned for the Jaguar Lounge and a “Crystallized” Rolls Royce in collaboration with Swarovski
- Author of the PORTUGAL MASTERS TROPHY OF GOLF – Commissioned by Portugal’s Tourism Office and the PGA (Professional Golf Association)
- Stuart Moore Gallery – NEW YORK – art deco-inspired collection. Commissioned in 2011 in collaboration with Eleuterio
- Member of COUTURE SHOW Designer’s Community – LAS VEGAS
- Brand Partner of The Editorialist Magazine – New York
- The Conservatory, permanent showcase – New York & Dallas
- Jensen & Stern, permanent showcase, Idaho
- Jared Browns, permanent showcase – Toronto
- Lido Jewellers, permanent showcase – San Juan
- Founder of the Alserkal Avenue’s Jewellery Workshop/Gallery, Creative Director 2015 – 2017 – Dubai
- Creative Consultant & CEO Savolinna Jewelry, DUBAI – 2017 to the present
- Member of the judges’ panel at the First Edition of “The Gulf 3D Printing Olympiad” held in Dubai, an event part of “UAE Innovation Week” powered by ATLAB – 2015
- Member of DBWC, Dubai Business Women Council
- Global Trusted E-Network Member – Dubai Chamber of Commerce & Industry
- Made in The Emirates – designers ‘exhibition curated in collaboration with Sotheby’s Dubai
- Alfardan Jewellery, permanet showcase – Abu Dhabi
- Ounass brand partner – GCC
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